Phil Timperman, Matt Gould (R.I.P.) and Jake Newman at Brugs Beertje for a Trappist ale and cheese tasting, 1998.
Situated just outside of the city of Oudenaarde in East Flanders, Belgium is the locale of Mater, where a brewery called Roman was established in 1545. The brewery has been operated by the same family since the 1600s, and as I write these words in 2025, the tradition continues with a 14th generation at the helm.
Roman Dobbelen Bruinen, as I remember it.
On March 25, 1998, Roman awaited the scrutiny of an eager squad of beer travelers under my immediate tutelage.
During this period Roman exported to America 750 ml bottles of a big, complex East Flanders brown ale called Dobbelen Bruinen, which sold well at the Public House, based in part on the frequency and earnestness of my personal recommendations.
I really loved that beer.
Upon arrival at Roman in early afternoon we were welcomed by the ranking brewery salesperson who gave us a fine walk-through, then guided us to the tasting hall for sampling — except these samples, normally comprising a few ounces, proved to be full pours of various house ales of our choice, many of them higher octane.
It occurred to me that...
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