Pijja Palace, Los Angeles.
I’m guessing at some level most diners understand that culinary rules have changed, perhaps irrevocably, and whether these changes are good, bad or indifferent is a topic we can discuss over tortellini in brodo with pozole verde.
Following is the link and selected excerpts from an Eater article—part of the web site’s Fall Preview 2022—which seeks to explain “chaos cooking”: “Part neo-fusion, part middle finger, a new, brash food style is changing the face of restaurants.”
Or: “The backlash to the backlash to the backlash.” Buckle your seatbelts, make a pot of coffee, and prepare to be challenged.
‘Chaos Cooking’ Is Coming — Are We Ready?, by Jaya Saxena (Eater)
But lately, a new crop of restaurants and pop-ups has begun serving not just fusion, but aggressive, weird, troll-y fusion that’s also thoughtful, being incredibly well received, and actually good. There is cheeseburger arancini, Big Mac pizza, pastrami tacos, tandoori spaghetti,...
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