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Last fall I was delighted to be given the assignment of profiling Trellis Brewing Co. (827 Logan St.), primarily because I’d heard just enough about the start-up to know that founders Kyle Jahn and Ryan Reed were planning on approaching beer and brewing from an angle that was simultaneously oblique (compared with prevailing norms) and quite traditional.
So it has been. Given that the format of a “column” openly incorporates the writer’s opinion, kindly indulge me when I say that the beers at Trellis are delicious, and just about everything associated with the brewery’s chosen method of operation testifies to the qualities that attracted many of us to “craft” brewing in the...
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